A few suggestions to make your conversion a little easier:
1. Use 4" exhaust pipe if you need a longer blast tube, you will need 8” (7.5” measured from housing).
2. Use a 1/8" x 6" brass pipe nipple to route the fuel line straight down through the blast tube just in front of the burner housing, leave enough room to turn a 90o elbow on.
3. The nozzle should just stick out of the blast tube about 1/8" to allow the nozzle to be flush with the inside of the retention head (if using a Kagi type retention head).
4. Shorten and thread the original fuel tube (J-tube) for 1/8" N.P.T. so the air goes into the original fuel location and into the top port on the heater block. When cutting the tube, be aware there is usually a filler rod inside and it is very hard and will dull the teeth on any saw in short order, abrasive wheels are best. The filler rod should be removed. Some newer model burners have a very thick walled tube for the fuel with no filler rod. These are not really suitable and should be replaced with 1/8” pipe fittings. The air should flow through the regulator/gauge then into the solenoid, then into the original J-tube. Air pressure should be 5-15 psi. More air pressure atomizes better but also increases firing rate and flame length. Use the original 90o 3/16” flare fittings to adapt the solenoid to the J-tube using the original 3/16” flared-end copper tube that connected the pump to the J-tube.
5. To lengthen the electrodes, use 10-32 all-thread and the long all-thread coupler nuts. Make sure they aren't too close to the heater block and short out. You can also get longer electrodes from HVAC stores. Bend the tips of the electrodes to make a better adjustment of 3/8” above the nozzle centerline and 1/8” apart and 1/32” forward of the nozzle. Make sure they clear the retention head and don’t short to it. If your electrode tips are too short to bend appropriately, purchase new Beckett part number 5780 electrodes.
6. Use a larger box (or a second box) to mount the primary safety on. This will allow enough room for the digital temperature controller and relay as well. Set temperature to 140-200o F. Set alarm output to 20o below temperature setting. Run t.t. terminals on primary safety through the alarm terminals on the digital temp controller; this will keep the burner from starting until the heater block reaches operating temperature. We recommend a primary safety with a 15 second lockout versus the typical 45 second. This will minimize the amount of waste oil sprayed into the chamber in the event of a flame out or other problem. The thermocouple should bottom out in the tapped hole to ensure thermal conductivity. If the nut is tight and the thermocouple is still loose, add some metal shavings or aluminum foil until the thermocouple bottoms out. Do not over tighten the nut, they are very fragile. Make sure you observe + and - on the thermocouple leads, (red is positive) or it will not work correctly.
7. You will need a new retention head. You can purchase one through ckBurners or you can contact Kagi burners and purchase one through them. Or make your own. The retention head may need to be cleaned once a month (use a propane torch to burn off deposits). The design of the retention head may take some trial and error. An instant ignition is the most important, followed by a short enough flame to fit the chamber. The stock Beckett retention heads are horrible and will most likely be wet with oil all the time and gum up blocking air flow.
8. You will need a float tank or other constant level device to maintain the oil level 2-14” below the nozzle centerline. Use 3/8” line to connect the tank to the fuel inlet on the bottom of the blast tube and keep the length under 3’. The closer the oil is to the nozzle centerline, the higher the firing rate. You can use an ammo container for the tank. You should filter oil to 50 micron or better and use a mesh filter before it goes into the float tank. We recommend a stainless mesh filter from McMaster-Carr. You can remove the stock fuel pump and block off the opening. Make sure you remove the pump coupler too.
9. Relocate the cad cell about midway down the blast tube. Drill a hole thru the blast tube and use a sheet metal screw. Some burners do not require this.
10. Always use never seize on the nozzle and do not over tighten. Be careful when threading the nozzle in, if the block is cross-threaded, there is no saving it - it’s ruined!
11. The plate on the bottom of the block seals the fuel passage. The screw has red Loc-Tite and the plate has high temp silicone. It is imperative that this plate not come loose, the burner will not operate because there will be a leak in the fuel line. You may need to bend the plate slightly to get the nozzle centered in the blast tube, be careful not to break the seal.
12. When tuning the burner, the air adjustment is critical to achieve a clean low soot burn as well as efficiency of the boiler/furnace. In my experience, with a good air-tight chamber, you will need to put aluminum foil or tape under the air shutter and air band. Only leave one set of slots for adjusting the air. The actual air adjustment will depend on the retention head as well as many other factors. ckBurners suggests setting the burner up with a smoke tester at minimum. Our preference to use a digital instrument to measure carbon monoxide, CO2, O2 as well as stack temp and efficiency. Oil quality and burner tune will have the biggest effect on maintenance intervals. The cleaner the oil, the less you will need to service it. Some chambers, especially wet base boilers are prone to unburnt oil on the floor and walls. Our suggestion here is a chamber liner made of stainless steel. You can test this inexpensively by using a piece of 7-8” flue pipe. It should only be 6-10” long and be about 1-2” away from the burner door or insertion wall. This will allow some re-circulation of hot gasses and help the burn.